Showing posts with label Fabric. Show all posts

Thursday

This thread is generally used for tacking.

Bias Binding

Bias binding is a strip of fabric that is cut on the cross (at 45degrees) this causes the strip to become stretchy so it will bind curves as well as straight edges.

Bondex Computer Plotter

High Quality White Plain Paper. For any computer plotter. Suitable for hand drawn markers.

Boning

Plastic coated steel used for corsetry and foundation garments.

Made from cotton, sometimes in linen, or synthetics. Plain weave, low-textured, loose weave, very heavily sized and stiff. Also can be made of 2 fabrics are glued together; one is open weave and the other much finer. Some is also made in linen in a single fabric.

Also called Crinoline Book Muslin or Book Binding.

Buckrum Softens with heat, it can be shaped while warm. Used for interlinings and all kinds of stiffening in clothes, book binding, and for millinery (because it can be moistened and shaped). Also used to give stiffness to leather.

Calico

Is a fabric made from unbleached and often not fully processed cotton. It may contain unseparated husk parts, for example. The fabric is less coarse and thick than canvas or denim, but owing to its unfinished and undyed appearance, it is still very cheap.

Cotton Twill

A fabric produced by constructing a weave that repeats on three or more warp threads and weft threads, and produces diagonal lines on the face of the fabric.

Cotton Drill

A twill fabric, usually piece-dyed, similar in construction to denim.

Diagram Scales

A flexible, acrylic square with graduations in one corner, one fifth and two fifths scales. Includes useful curves for armholes, necklines and sleeves.

Fibre Mesh

This truly unique material imitates matted fibres providing you with a material that is easy to cut and glue to most surfaces. Ideal for collage.

Flixi Invisible Mending.

An iron on bonding material for fusing fabrics together.

Embroidery Ring

Used to hold fabric taut so that fabric can be sewn and helps to avoid puckering while sewing.

Georgette

A fine lightweight open fabric woven in crêpe yarns.

Graders Set Squares

Durable 3mm thick clear acrylic with engraved markings: grading lines along one edge, two edges calibrated and bevelled. 45 degree angle for bias.

Hole for hanging. Long edge inches, short edge cm.

Habotai

A lightweight silk fabric commonly used for linings, hangings and underwear.

Hemming Web

An iron on adhesive strip of material which bonds fabrics together used for hems but could be used in other ways.

Hooks & Eyes & Hook & Bar

A fastening often used on waist band of trousers or skirts.

Mercerising

Refers to the finishing process where cotton thread is treated in a caustic solution under controller tension.

Monofilament

Thread produced from a single nylon continuous filament that is translucent.

Multifilament

Thread made from continuous filaments of polyester or nylon, twisted together and plied to make a thread.

NEEDLES

Tapestry Round point slips between fabric yarns

Quilting Short needles for quick even stitching

Darning Extra long with long eyes for mending work

Leather Triangular point pierces without tearing

Sharps A small needle for general sewing in assorted sizes

Milliners The extra length allows long stitches to be loaded up on the needle, good for basing.

Pattern Hook

Used to hang up paper patterns for storage.

Pattern Master

A specially designed, multi-purpose work aid with all the conventional functions of the Graders Set Square plus some unique features which speed up, and remove, some of the drudgery from pattern cutting. Made from strong, clear Perspex and bevelled on its long straight edge. Supplied with basic, easy-to-follow instructions in a protective wallet. Designed by Professor Martin Shoben of the London Centre for Fashion Studies. 43cm (16 3/4 in.) long, 19cm (7 1/4 in.) wide, and 3mm (1/8 in.) thick.
Available in Metric or Imperial.

Pattern Notcher

Used to cut a notch in pattern or fabric which is a marker to match pattern pieces together when constructing a garment.

Permaspun Thread

100% polyester thread.

Piping Cord

Can be covered by bais binding. It is a way to emphasize a seam or edge and can add strength to corners that might receive a lot of wear.

Polyester Rigilene Boning

Is used in many applications, as stiffening for bows, corsets, hats & belts, within soft toys, on bags, shoes and purses. It is also used in soft furnishings such as pelmets, tie-backs and blinds. In fact its use is limited only by your imagination.

Satin

Is a cloth that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back. A satin is a weaving technique that forms a minimum number of interlacings in a fabric.

If a fabric is formed with a satin weave using filament fibers such as silk or nylon, the fabric is termed a "satin."

If the yarns used are short-staple yarns such as cotton the fabric formed is considered a "sateen."

Shears (Side Bent)

The side bent handles make it easier to cut fabrics flat on the table.

Shears (Pinking)

They cut through denim and all woven materials with a crisp zig-zag that helps to prevent fraying. The blades, made from finest surgical steel, are precision ground with a longer lower blade to make continuous cutting easier. The specially contoured handles ensure maximum comfort and excellent control.

Shirring

Making puckers or gathers in a fabric, often by using elasticated thread in parallel rows.

Shoben Fashion Curve

A multi-purpose 12 function Grading and Pattern Cutting/Design Tool. Graduating from 0 to 50cm with a 25cm centring scale, curves for neck, armholes and hips, bias and right angle markings and curved seam allowance.

Shoben Designer Tape

A new adhesive tape with 1cm markings to speed up style planning. This tape replaces the old fashioned pins and fabric tape method and avoids damaging your dress stand. 3mm wide. 25 metres long. This tape has other applications, such as marking out paintings on canvas or board, clay modelling etc. Easily removable and leaves no mark.

Stitch Ripper

This tool is used to unpick sewing, it is especially effective along seams.

Sylko Thread

A 100% cotton thread.

Tarlatan

Is a starched, open weave fabric much like cheese cloth, It is used to wipe the ink off a plate during the Intaglio inking process. The open weave allows for the tarlatan to pick up a large quantity of ink. The stiffness imparted by the starch helps prevent the fabric from taking the ink out of the incised lines.

Tailors chalk/pencils

Can be used on virtually all textiles except those of a delicate nature.

Light brushing or washing will remove the chalk marks. All Coloured Chalks must be used with caution on pale materials.

Tracing Carbon

Ideal for accurate copying of patterns. Available in white or yellow.

Tracing Wheel

A tracing wheel allows you to transfer or duplicate pattern shapes onto fabric. Serrated tracing wheels can be used in conjunction with dressmaker’s carbon paper.

Lazertran and Fabrics

Lazertran and fabric

LAZERTRAN IRONED ONTO FABRIC.

1. Copy your image in reverse then place the Lazertran face down on the cloth.

2. Set iron to hot and iron onto the cloth until it is well stuck.

3. Wet the backing paper and peel off. Wipe away gum from image and allow to dry.

4. Place baking parchment, not greaseproof paper, over image and iron. Allow to cool then peel off baking parchment and repeat until the image sinks into the cloth.

This method can be used for needlepoint canvas and tapestry canvas as a guide.

LAZERTRAN SILK

Have your own design, image from a book or even patterns from magazines copied, in reverse onto Lazertran paper. Then follow the instructions below.

Instructions for use.

1. Iron silk flat.

2. Set iron hot enough for the toners to stick to the silk.

3. Lay silk over your image and iron until the silk is stuck to the image.

4. Place the silk in clean warm water, paper down and leave until the paper falls off.

5. Lift the silk carefully from the water, lay the image face down and lightly iron with a cool iron till dry.

6. When dry, place a sheet of silicon baking parchment over the image.

7. Iron through the baking parchment then allow to cool. Peel off.

This method produces a beautiful result and can be rinsed in warm water but will not take a vigorous wash. Always iron with low setting through silicon baking parchment.

LAZERTRAN SILK NEW METHOD

Lazertran Silk can now be used to put images onto almost any surface using 3M Photo Mount Spray. Just copy your image onto lazertran Silk in reverse or mirror, cut to size and then spray an even coat of Photo mount onto the image. Press onto the surface and make sure it is well stuck. Iron with a medium heat iron if using on cloth. Wet backing paper, allow to soak for about one minute and slide off.

This method can be used on Voile, plastics, wood and in decoupage to put images down without thickness. It is also very good for interior decoration on walls etc.

FOR THICKER FABRICS LAZERTRAN CAN BE IRONED ON

This method can be used for cotton, needlepoint canvas and tapestry canvas as a guide.

1.Place Lazertran face down on the cloth.

2. Set iron to wool/cotton and iron onto the cloth until it is well stuck.

3. Wet the backing paper and peel off. Wipe off gum and allow to dry, or place, paper side down in a tray of water and allow the paper to fall off. Wash off any gum.

5. Place face down and iron lightly from the back until dry, lifting when cool each time to avoid the image sticking to your ironing surface.

4. Turn over and place silicon baking parchment over image and give it a good ironing. Allow to cool, peel off silicon sheet and repeat till the image sinks into the cloth.

Wednesday

Bondaweb Technique

Gillian Allen

Bondaweb Technique

This is quite a complicated one, needs a bit of planning and gathering of materials but the finished pieces are worth it and make great journal/book covers.

You need

1. An old iron.

2. Baking parchment (non stick paper)

3. Bondaweb, this is used for appliqué and mending fabric, it's a heat activated film of glue on backing paper, if you buy a yard you've got lots to practice with.

4. Paper or material you can experiment with both

5. Material: silk or polyester or try all sorts, has to be dyed

Paper: I've used, and this is very good wait for it: - Baby wipes, I use them to clean rubberstamps, and are soft, thick, absorbent of dye/paint and can be sewn into. Wash first, while damp brush on some paints, I like watercolour powder as you mix to required strength and is cheap, acrylics watered down a bit, dyes, anything in harmonious colours let run and merge into each other, then dry.

I've also tried nappy liners, which are excellent, as they also do not disintegrate with water. Filmy fabrics can be ironed onto soft iron on Vylene or for a thick piece Pelmet Vylene, dye/paint these

Embellishments: think about you colour scheme. Find small bits of shimmery/ glitzy/sheer/transparent/ fabrics, metallic threads/unusual yarns, cut up, glitter, sequins, tiny beads, fine wire, tissue paper, you get the picture.

Method

1 lay dyed, dried piece on non stick paper

2 cut out piece bondaweb slightly bigger than paper, lay glue side down, on top.

3 Cover with more non-stick paper. Hot iron over whole piece, cool.

4 Peel off backing paper gently, you might need to iron a bit more if not pulling away.

5 Lay piece down again on NS paper. Sprinkle embellishments over in one layer.

6 Cover with NS paper and iron again with hot iron.

7 Cool and take off paper.

Some more things you can do with it

1 Iron over (NS paper to cover) fine chiffon, if acrylic, you can try melting it in places with a hot air gun, gently at first.

2 Rub down fashion metallic film or laser print gold film. With a cool iron (try a small bit first as this needs practice) quickly iron over (colour face up). You just want a hint of a sparkle here and there.

Or try next technique.

You can machine embroider with metallic threads all over it

This method takes a bit of experimenting to achieve subtlety but bondaweb has great potential for those wanting some exciting surfaces.

Painted Bondaweb

This can be used to cover the above, to tone it down or give added interest, or on more dyed paper/fabric

You need

Acrylic inks/paints, bright fluorescents/metallics can look good

Piece of bondaweb.

Method

1 Paint Bondaweb with runnyish paint, let run in rivulets, keep some areas not painted, dry.

2 Iron over paper or fabric

3 Peel off backing

This stuff is reactivated when ironed (use non-stick paper over it) and you can sprinkle glitter or whatever on top and iron again.

Bondaweb Sandwich

This technique is fun you could play for hours.

You need

Oblong piece of Bondaweb

Same size piece of transparent fabric i.e. acrylic chiffon sort used for headscarves.

Some fine pot-pourie or similar scraps.

Method

1 Lay Bondaweb glue up on NS paper.

2 One half sprinkle pot-pourrie, scraps filmy shiny fabric, or tissue (experiment)

3 Fold Bondaweb in half, cover with NS paper.

4 Iron (hot) together, cool, peel off backing.

5 Put between piece chiffon, iron.

6 Gently melt chiffon so it goes lacy.

It melts away where there are gaps.

Sometimes I burn (I’ve got a pyrography tool) round the edges leaving some bits dangling. You have to really use man made fibres for the melting bit.

Flower Petals and Bondaweb

This is a bit easier.

You need

Bondaweb

Paper or filmy fabric same size

Selection of petals, small flowers or leaves
Method

1 Lay out fabric or paper, arrange petals etc over.

2 Peel glue off Bondaweb, lay over petals

3 Cover with NS paper,

4 Hot iron all over.

Take off paper, any not stuck just re-iron.

Some flowers/petals do go dark some are better than others. If using on paper it might be a better idea to stick down pressed flowers.

Hydrangeas stay good.

Dylon Machine Fabic Dye's

Dylon Machine Fabric Dye's

Dylon Hand Fabric Dyes

Dylon Image Maker

DYLON Image Maker - Instructions

DYLON Image Maker transfers black & white and coloured

photocopies onto any washable fabric.

You will need:

• A colour or black and white photocopy

• DYLON Image Maker

• Paper Towels

• Rolling Pin

Instructions:

1. Always wash and dry chosen garment (even if it is new). Place a protective backing underneath the design area, (eg a piece of cardboard or an unprinted plastic bag) to prevent the Image Maker seeping through.

2. Place image printed side up on a covered work surface. Squeeze a generous amount of Image Maker onto the picture and using a clean brush, spread paste over the whole image. The paste should be thick enough that the image cannot be seen clearly.

3. Place the image on the fabric, paste side down. Smooth the paper down to ensure that there are no wrinkles. Place a paper towel over the transfer and use a rolling pin to lightly press the paper onto the fabric, rolling in alternate directions for about 1 minute. Blot off any excess paste with the paper towel.

4. Allow to dry thoroughly (at least 4 hours, preferably overnight).

5. When dry, wet the paper thoroughly with a water soaked sponge. With your finger or sponge, gently begin rubbing until the top layer of the paper can be rolled off.

6. Leave the garment to dry. Remove the remainder of the fuzz from the image using a damp sponge.

7. Allow your garment to dry thoroughly. Place a few drops of Image Maker onto your image and rub in gently with a piece of cloth to seal the transferred image.

8. Allow the image to dry thoroughly. Do not wash garment within the first 72 hours.

Washing Instructions:

Wash item by hand in lukewarm water or in a washing machine, on a 30°C gentle cycle. Turn garment inside out prior to washing. Dry garment flat. Do not dry clean and do not iron directly onto the image.

Using Heat Transfer Paper

Instructions for Heat Transfer Paper