Showing posts with label Painting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Painting. Show all posts

Thursday

Colour Wheel





Colour Wheel and Complimentary Colours


  • "red and green
  • blue and orange
  • yellow and violet
The complement of each primary color (red, blue, or yellow) is roughly the color made by mixing the other two in a subtractive system:
  • red complements (blue + yellow) = green
  • blue complements (red + yellow) = orange
  • yellow complements (red + blue) = violet
When two complements of opaque paint are mixed, they approximate black. For example, a little bit ofultramarine mixed with orange, produces a dark variation of black. Placed side by side as tiny dots, in partitive color mixing, they produce gray. As colored light projected on a white screen, in additive color mixing, they produce white.
The use of complementary colors is an important aspect of aesthetically pleasing art and graphic design. This also extends to other fields such as contrasting colors in logos and retail display. When placed next to each other, complements make each other appear brighter. On an artistic color wheel, complementary colors are placed opposite one another. "
- description source wikipedia

Painting Questions



Q.
Can I mix Oils and Acrylics?
A.  If by that you mean mix the two paints together, the simple answer is No. You can however do an under-painting with Acrylics and then paint oils over the top, this is useful if you wish to make a quick start but not necessarily of archival quality unless an acrylic emulsion gesso is used.   

Why? Acrylics are water based, when you try to paint acrylic over oils, like water on a ducks back it slides off, but this isn't always apparent at first!
Q.
Can I mix water based Oils with ordinary Oils?
A. Yes you can. BUT if you mix water based with traditional/ordinary oils, then you need to treat them all as ordinary oils, especially when it comes to cleaning equipment.
The modified mediums used with water-based oils were designed for that purpose, and likewise the mediums for ordinary oils.
Q.
Do I have to paint Oils on canvas?
A. No you don't, you can use just about any surface for Oils. The only recommendation is that it is suitably sealed and primed, and has a 'key' or 'tooth' for the paint to adhere to, this is very important.
You can successfully use solid supports like wood, hardboard, plywood, chipboard, tin, copper, brick, concrete, plasterboard, and pottery.
Other supports include oil paper, watercolour paper, illustration board, linen, muslin, silk, polyester and museum board. Plenty to choose from!
Q.
What's the difference between, a support, a size and a ground?
A. The support is just that, the material that supports the finished painting, a cave wall or a canvas.
The size, which is usually a form of weak glue, penetrates the surface of the support i.e. rabbit skin glue applied to raw canvas.
A ground is a physical surface between the support and the paint, it gives a surface texture to paint on, often referred to as 'tooth'. The raw canvas is sized to give it internal protection and strength, a ground is then applied to prime and seal the canvas ready for painting.
Why? The ground gives a uniform surface to paint on, without it, the oil paint would soak into the fabric which can cause all types of problems. Over time the acids in the atmosphere can attack all manner of things and even if the fabric of the canvas fell away, the painting could still be intact on it's ground.
Q.
What is a wash?
A. A wash is paint thinned with solvent only to a 'watery' consistency, this is usually applied to colour the ground before painting.
Q.
What is a glaze?
A. A glaze is a transparent film of colour. The colour is thinned with solvent and painting medium until very liquid, this allows a thin even coat to be applied, to the desired area over the dry painting. Good for depth and colour.
Q.
What is scumble or scumbling?
A. Very little paint is used on the brush for this technique. The colour is often opaque, it is used very dry and is in effect 'scrubbed' on, as opposed to painted on to the canvas, good for misty effects and high lights. Very similar to 'dry brush' in watercolour.
Q.
What's Impasto?
  1. Impasto is thick and/or rough strokes of paint. A knife is often used for this technique, it is a good way of creating texture. 

Q.
What is
'Gesso' ?
A. The traditional Gesso is made from hide glue and chalk or gypsum. It is applied to a solid surface and forms a hard, absorbent, ground on which to paint. Gesso is also found in the woodworking industry, where is known as Bole. 


There are other Gesso's on the market today, these are often Acrylic and Acrylic emulsion based, quick drying and can be used on a flexible surface as well as a solid surface/ground. Acrylic emulsion gesso is used for priming and is recommended for use with oils. 
Q.
What is a siccative?
A siccative is another name for a drier, driers are added to some oil paint pigment to make it dry faster but is usually found in oil mediums. Burnt Umber, which is by nature a fast drying paint, (without added driers) when added to other colours causes them to dry faster, it acts as a siccative. 
Q.
What are Earth Colours?
A. Earth colours were originally made from natural ores of the earth, the main one being iron oxide. Many manufactures now make synthetic iron oxide. The main earth colours are Burnt and Raw Umber, Burnt and Raw Sienna, Yellow Ochre, Terre Verte, (Green Earth) Caput Mortuum, Davys Grey, Venetian and Light Red, there are others but the first five are the main ones people refer to.
The earth colours tend to be strong colours that have low chroma and low tinting strength, making them easy to handle.
The 'Mars' range of colours tend to be made from synthetic iron oxides. 

Gouache Paint


What is Gouache?



Gouache is an opaque watercolour paint. Whereas transparent watercolours allow you to see the "white" of the paper below the paint, gouache can be applied in solid colours. This allows an artist to paint in layers from dark to light.
Gouache dries to a matte finish, which makes it easy to scan or reproduce electronically, since there is no glossy shine.

Acrylic gouache is not really a gouache, because it has an acrylic polymer binder, but it is an acrylic paint that resembles gouache in properties such as its opacity, its creamy texture, and its matte finish. 


Renowned for its brilliance, opacity, and great tinting strength, Winsor & Newton Designer's Gouache is a finely ground, water based paint, well suited to illustration with pen, brush, or airbrush.


All Designer's Gouache colours are fully compatible with Winsor & Newton Artists' and Cotman watercolours.


Colours can be mixed with Finity Artists' Acrylic and Galeria Flow Formula Acrylics, however care should be taken because some gouache colours can react adversely with acrylics. Combinations should be tested on the palette paper prior to use in a painting.


For fine art painting, watercolour papers are recommended. For design and illustration, where work is intended for electronic scanning and reproduction, use illustration board or a hot press watercolour paper to get a flat finish that reproduces well. 

Using Oil Bars


OIL BARS

Oil Bars are fundamentally different from oil pastels or oil crayons due to their unique formulation. Each of the colours are produced by combining artists' quality pigments with Linseed Oil, into which are blended specially selected waxes.
Using Oil Bars
To start using the Oil Bar simply wipe away the thin surface film which forms as the Oil Bar dries. The Oil Bar softens & flows as pressure is applied. They may be applied directly to the canvas so that nothing comes between artist and the surface to which it is applied.
This allows the artist to draw a continuous line of rich colour to create traditional sketches or abstract images.
Painting Surface
The Oil Bar can be used on a variety of surfaces including paper, canvas & board. The surface should be sized and primed in the same way as for any oil-based product.
Compatibility
Oil Bars can be intermixed with traditional oil colours, oil pastels etc whilst painting and can be used with all types of mediums formulated for use with oil colours.
Drying Time
Subject to variation the oil colour will generally be touch dry in 2 to 7 days. The outer film of the remaining Oil Bar will reform after 2 to 5 days.

The Difference between System 3 Original and Heavy Body



This video demonstrates the Difference between System 3 Original and Heavy Body.

Daler-Rowney Watercolour Wash Lesson


Daler-Rowney Watercolour Wash Lesson

Daler-Rowney Colour Mixing Lesson


Daler-Rowney Colour Mixing Video

Oil Paint Technique


OIL PAINTING TECHNIQUE

There are many different ways to paint but the two most commonly used ones are, Traditional  (indirect painting), a slow and controlled method. Wet-on-wet (direct painting) with this method, the painting is usually completed in one sitting, often referred to alla prima - at the first.

The traditional method often uses tonal under-painting as the basis of the picture, usually grey (grisaille) or brown (bistre) in colour. The tonal values of the finished under-painting should be lighter in tone than required in the finished work, because the application of the glazes will lower the value. Often more complex in application, whereby transparent and opaque layers of paint are applied in succession, opaque layers can also be applied as a scumble. The transparent layers are usually applied as a glaze of thin colour over the more opaque layers, the opaque layer being allowed to dry before the glaze is applied. The final layer of paint can be painted directly into the last glaze. Colours applied by this method usually bring a greater luminosity to the finished work than can be achieved in the direct method. Acrylic gesso can be used successfully for under-painting, especially if you wish to make a quick start.

With the wet-on-wet method, the painting is completed with, in effect, one layer of paint, which is usually opaque or semi-opaque. There is a need to make definite decisions about the work, before and as it progresses. All the elements of the painting have to be mentally handled at the same time, with regard to tone, composition, shape, form and colour, etc.  Doing a sketch or drawing before starting the work can be very helpful.
When working in the traditional way it is important to work 'Fat over Lean'.  'Fat' is paint straight from the tube or with linseed oil added, this makes the paint more flexible when dry. 'Lean' is paint with no added oil or thinned with solvent. The way it works is to start with paint that has low oil content (lean), followed by paint with high oil content, then paint with added linseed oil (fat). As a general rule of thumb, working from dark colours to light colours helps to maintain this principal.

Whites

Vary considerably, and have different uses,
Painting whites are not usually suitable for priming or under painting.
Cremnitz slow drying.
Flake white lacks opacity.
Titanium whitest and most opaque slow drier.
Zinc least opaque cold white for tints and glazes.

The Fat over Lean Principle


First layer of paint thinned with solvent.
Next layers of paint have less solvent.
Next layers are tube paint - no solvent.
Next layers are tube paint with a little linseed oil.
Final layer is tube paint with more linseed oil.

Mixing the Paint

You can mix paint on the palette, on the brush, with a knife or on the canvas, each will give a different effect - try them all. The flat, round bladed 'palette knife', is the best for mixing paint on the palette. Mix small amounts of paint at first until you feel better able to judge quantities.

Dark colours will overpower light colours very quickly. It's very easy to 'over mix' colours on the palette, this can lead to very flat, dead looking paint. Something to be avoided!

When mixing colour on the brush, try not to use it like a palette knife, instead pick small amounts of the colour up with the brush, either by tapping the brush into the colour or pulling it through the paint.
It's easy to use a painting knife like a palette knife, but painting knives are engineered to give the correct edge for applying paint to the canvas. You can load one colour at a time or several on the blade edge. There are a variety of shapes and sizes of painting knives, recognised by their cranked handle.

Georgian Oil Colour

By Daler Rowney These oil colours offer artists high performance colours at an economical and uniform price across all 57 colours in the range. Georgian Oil Colours are produced to the same exacting standards as Artists' Oil Colour. Georgian Oil Colours are carefully blended and tested to produce the most brilliant colour, and match tint, and texture from batch to batch. All 57 colours have fine working qualities and a high degree of permanence.



Daler Rowney System 3 colour chart



Linseed Oil for Oil Paints


Linseed Oil Paste

Is almost transparent, has a similar consistency to oil colours in tubes. It does not promote quick drying and can be used to extend oil colours. Will not increase gloss. Used in large ratios it is liable to increase yellowing and darkening of pale colours.

Linseed Oil ( Refined )

Reduces colour consistency of oil paints, increases gloss & transparency, slows drying time.

Linseed Stand Oil

A heat refined linseed oil for reducing viscosity of oil colours, whilst improving flow. Using oil will also reduce brush marks and slow down drying time.

Liquin

Improves flow of oils & alkyds, for smooth brushwork, and fine detail

Gum Arabic - Watercolours and Pastels


Gum Arabic

Previously known as Gum Acacia, from the Acacia tree found in Australia, Africa and Asia. Best from Africa. When dissolved in hot water used as an adhesive, stop out in litho printing, as a size, and more commonly as a binder in watercolours and pastels. Plasticizers added as pure gum is brittle.

Adding gum Arabic to your watercolour has three effects-
  • Slows down drying time of paint giving you slightly longer to work on creating your image or wet into wet
  • Adds further transparency to your water colour and it increases gloss.
  • Watercolour washes will have greater depth and appear more luminous than colour washes alone.
Gum Arabic can be added to your jar of water if you prefer to use it through out the painting.
Gum Arabic should not be used directly from the bottle because thick films will be brittle.

Canvas - Priming the Canvas

Priming


Canvases can be primed with either oil or acrylic primer. Acrylic primer is more versatile, flexible and, when applied properly, forms a good, non-acidic barrier between the paint and the canvas.
When dry, oil or water-based paints can be used on its surface. For extra protection a soft gel size can be applied before the coats of primer. There are many gels, which can be directly applied on top of the primer which will give various surface effects prior to painting.
If a permanent, safe, flexible surface is required, use materials designed for artists.  Do not be tempted to use emulsion or any other household paints. They may be cheaper, but they are designed for rigid substrates and will eventually crack and fade, ruining your artwork.




Tools for the Job
A brush or a roller.
A plastic container.
Some fine grade wet or dry paper.


or the first coat of primer, mix about 10% water to the primer in a separate container and stir well.
For larger canvases a roller will give a more even surface.
If using a brush, ensure the primer is worked thoroughly into the surface.



Apply the first coat in one direction only.
Allow at least 6 hours to dry.
If a smooth surface is required, sand down with a fine grade wet or dry paper between coats.



When thoroughly dry, brush the second coat at 90 degrees to the first and all other layers at 90 degrees to the previous layer.
A minimum of three coats is recommended.
For a smoother surface apply more coats giving a light sanding between coats.


Canvas - Stretching a Canvas





Tools for the Job
A tape measure.
A tack hammer.
A wooden mallet.
A staple gun (but 3/8" bayonet tacks can be used).




Knock the stretcher bars together with the mallet to form the required dimensions. If you have chosen a larger stretcher, the cross-bar should also be added.



Cut the canvas with an extra 2" each side. Place the canvas face down on a clean, flat surface. Then place the frame onto the canvas with the raised lip of the stretcher face down.



Centre the frame and check that the weave of the canvas runs parallel to the stretcher bars.
Starting on one side of the smaller sides, fasten the canvas to the stretcher with one tack in the centre of the bar. The tack should be placed about ½” from the edge of the canvas. Then follow the sequence for each side shown in the diagram.
The canvas needs to be pulled and held reasonably taut before each tack is secured.


Beginning on one of the longer lengths, tack the canvas to the bar in the sequence shown.
The tacks should be about 2 – 3” apart. Remember to keep the canvas pulled taut.



When one side is secured, repeat the procedure in the sequence shown.
Tack the smaller sides to about 3” from the corner, this allows room to fold and neaten the canvas.



Fold the corners as if making a bed (i.e. nurses corners).  
Tack each corner in turn.


Place the wooden wedges into the slots in the inside edge of the stretcher bars.
Adjust the tension of the canvas by gently knocking the wedges with the tack hammer.
The wedges are used to make final adjustments. Only slight alterations to the canvas tension can be made at this stage.


Canvas


Cotton Duck Canvas

Cotton Duck Canvas is the economical ground for oils and acrylics. Available in 9 oz or the heavier weight 12oz. Much less expensive than the traditional linen. Cotton represents good value good durability and toughness. Two coats of acrylic or gesso primer are required or alternatively cotton duck can be primed in the traditional manner using rabbit skin glue.

Painting Board

For oil and acrylic painting. Acrylic primed. A ready primed canvas covered panel with turned edges. Medium grain surface.



Wednesday

Watercolour Brushes


Watercolour brushes


Every watercolour brush should have 3 important qualities;

  • A great point or edge for precision.
  • Perfect ‘snap’ or spring. When you lift a brush from the painting surface, it should snap right back into shape.
  • Even flow control. The brush should dispense colour consistently and predictably.

Pro Arte Brushes


Pro Arte Brushes

By mixing different grades of filament the manufacturer can create qualities that simulate natural hairs that are easy to clean and hard wearing. Synthetic brushes are generally cheaper to buy than natural hair brushes.

‘Acrylix’ a firm brush, shorter filaments mainly designed for acrylic paint but can be used for other media particularly good for impasto or using the paint thickly or straight from the tube.

‘Prolene’ a soft synthetic brush with good colour holding properties, especially suitable for Indian ink, watercolour and acrylic washes.
The 101 is a range of round brushes with a fine point.
The 106 is a range of flat brushes.

‘White Nylon’ an alternative to the Prolene range these brushes provide excellent spring and colour holding qualities and offer good value for money.

Oil Painting Brushes


Oil Painting Brushes


Hog hair or bristle brushes are good for oil painting especially when using heavy paint straight from the tube.
You can use sable, or synthetic mixed with sable or 100%synthetic. The sable and sable/synthetic mix will usually give a softer, smoother look to the applied paint, these are also useful for detail work.
Synthetic brushes, range from soft to bristle effect.

The brush shapes in general use for oils are: - Filbert, Bright, Flat, Fan, Round, and Rigger.
The effect you wish to create, dictates the choice of shape and filament. 

Reading from left to right the following hog bristle brushes are-             

        Fan      Bright     Round    Flat    Filbert
Brushes courtesy Daler Rowney



Fan - shaped like a fan and sometimes referred to as a fan blender. 
Bright - flat with short bristle.
Round - shaped like a bullet which comes to a blunt point. 
Flat - flat with long bristle.
Filbert - shaped like a filbert nut.

Acrylic Paint Brushes


Acrylic Painting Brushes


Synthetic Brushes
Synthetics are man-made of either nylon or polyester. They may come tipped, tapered, flagged, abraded or even etched to increase the brushes' ability to carry colour. The man-made filaments may be dyed and baked to make them soft and more absorbent. The advantages of a synthetic brush are as follows:
They are very durable
They are less likely to be damaged by moths, paints or mild solvents.
They are easier to clean.
If you are using an acrylic paint, use a synthetic brush. 

Sable Brushes


Sable Brushes

The ultimate soft brush is made from the hairs on the tail of the sable marten; these taper naturally, they are renowned for their softness, flexibility, and fine point. There are different grades of sable, the finest are Kolinsky sable from Siberia. These are soft, golden brown that darkens at the tip. Hairs from other parts of the pelt are used in lower quality brushes, they are less ‘springy’ but more affordable. Sable brushes can be used for watercolour, gouache and oils.

Squirrel: Cheaper than sable, squirrel is a soft hair with little spring. Larger squirrel brushes work better than smaller ones because the mass of hairs together gives them support.

Hog/bristle: The ultimate hard brush is made from the hairs on the back of a pig (hog), which are strong yet springy. The bristles have natural split-ends, which increases the amount of paint they hold. Used for oils and acrylics.

Camel: Brushes labelled 'camel' hair are really made from other types of soft hair.
Camel hair is unsuitable for brushes because it's too woolly.

Ox: Long, strong and springy hair.

Pony: Coarse hair that doesn't form a good point. Often used in cheaper brushes.

Goat: Lacks spring but forms a good point. Used in calligraphy and Chinese brush painting.