Thursday

Colour Wheel





Colour Wheel and Complimentary Colours


  • "red and green
  • blue and orange
  • yellow and violet
The complement of each primary color (red, blue, or yellow) is roughly the color made by mixing the other two in a subtractive system:
  • red complements (blue + yellow) = green
  • blue complements (red + yellow) = orange
  • yellow complements (red + blue) = violet
When two complements of opaque paint are mixed, they approximate black. For example, a little bit ofultramarine mixed with orange, produces a dark variation of black. Placed side by side as tiny dots, in partitive color mixing, they produce gray. As colored light projected on a white screen, in additive color mixing, they produce white.
The use of complementary colors is an important aspect of aesthetically pleasing art and graphic design. This also extends to other fields such as contrasting colors in logos and retail display. When placed next to each other, complements make each other appear brighter. On an artistic color wheel, complementary colors are placed opposite one another. "
- description source wikipedia

Online Light exposure calculator

Available light photography exposure calculator is an online guide to getting a correct exposure value when taking photographs using a manual camera. Whilst being online its never going to be accurate because light environments change so quickly. However it is useful to get an idea of what your camera could be set at if you dont have a light meter. There are plenty of settings to choose from. Here is the link - click here

Developing Black and White Photographic Film

Here is a link to Ilford's guide on how to develop Black and White film. Click Here. This is very useful if you are new to the process. It has diagrams and accurate measurements for times and chemicals (for the use of their particular products). So long as you have the basic equipment (tank, spiral, chemicals and an exposed film) you can process the film at home or in the photography department. Its easy once your used to it. 

There are many videos on YouTube on how to develop a black and white film. The one below is an example of one of them. See the rest here. Once you have gone actually through the process of developing once it becomes at lot easier.



There are various black and white chemical developers and fixers. Each do the exact same job but may have slightly different developing times. Its probably useful to stick to one brand at first.

Enjoy your Photography.


Film Photography Basic Information


Film Speed

Each type of film has an ASA or speed, e.g. 100, 200, 400, 1600, 3200 etc
The higher the film speed, the lower light the film becomes. i.e.; very bright conditions – 100 ASA Low light – 3200ASA.
However the grain increases as film speed increases.

35mm is the everyday film format for compact and SLR and is also in disposable cameras.
120 is medium format.120 produces larger image sizes form 6 x 4.5 cms, 6 x 6 cms, 6 x 7 cms, 6 x 8 cms, 6 x 9 cms, depending on the brand of camera.

Colour Negative Film

produces ‘negative’ images for printing large professional prints to minilab style prints.
General purpose neg film e.g. Fuji superia 100/200/400/800/1600.
This is known as C41 process.

Transparency Film

produces ‘slide’ type images. Can also be printed but produces poorer quality prints than neg film.
General purpose transparency film is Fuji Sensia 100/200/400
Professional transparency film e.g. Fuji Provia 100F/400F, Fuji Velvia, Kodak EPP.
This is known as E6 process.

Black & white film

e.g. Ilford  FP4, HP5 traditional film technology (50 -70 years old)
Ilford Delta 100/400/3200  new technology, finer grain and sharper than traditional.
Fuji Neopan 400/1600 very similar to Ilford FP4/HP5

‘Pushing’ film

It is possible to increase the film rating on the camera e.g. A 200 ASA film rated as a 400 has been pushed 1 stop. This is useful in lower light conditions with bright light film. Camera function would indicate a slower shutter speed to get enough light to produce a decent negative. Too slow would produce ‘camera shake’ casing a blurry negative. By pushing the film you allow shutter speed to increase so camera shake is not visible. 

However Pushed films can typically have higher contrast and with colour films have a colour bias. They also have a higher granularity.

Photographic paper

For photographic prints form negatives, for use only in a dark room.
Ilford multigrade paper is one of the best printing papers.  It has a full multigrade range. (00 – 5) This means from any negative you can produce a very soft feel (grade 00 – low contrast) to a very hard feel (5 – high contrast), by using multigrade filters.
These effects can be combined in a print to produce strong contrast whilst maintaining shadow detail, some expertise will be required to do this. Other brands have an effective multigrade range of 0 – 3, and therefore inferior.

RC - Resin coated paper

Is the most popular, this has the full multigrade range and is much quicker to dry, whilst maintaining it’s flatness. This is in contrast to FB - fibre-based.
Resin coated comes in three surfaces; gloss/pearl/satin.
Size varies, but for a contact sheet a page of film is laid on multigrade paper and is exposed to even light through an enlarger, 9.5” x 12” is normal. RC papers are the only ones that can go through processing machines.

FB – fibre based paper

Is for the experienced printer. This paper cannot be processed in open trays. It dries unevenly and can curl up, may need to go through a machine to flatten it. It does however produce a beautiful print with a nice ‘heaviness’. There is more silver in these papers, hence producing a richer image. This paper is available in matt or gloss. N.B. This paper cannot be put through processing machines.


See Kodaks website and Ilfords website for further more technical information.

Paper Glossary


Quantities

1 quire = 25 sheets
1 ream = 500 sheets (480 sheets for acid free tissue)
1 millpack = The size of the pack as shipped from the mill (usually 100 sheets, but will vary according to the paper).

Paper Sizes

Paper
Size (millimetres)
4A0
2378 x 1682
2A0
1682 x 1189
A0
1189 x 841
A1
841 x 594
A2
594 x 420
A3
420 x 297
A4
297 x 210
A5
210 x 148
A6
148 x 105
A7
105 x 74
A8
74 x 52
A9
52 x 37
A10
37 x 26


Antiquarian
1350 x 730
Atlas
864 x 660
Cartridge
661 x 534
Colombier
876 x 597
Crown
510 x 380
Demy
570 x 440
Double Crown
760 x 510
Double Demy
900 x 570
Double Elephant
1020 x 690
Double Foolscap
680 x 430
Double Medium
920 x 580
Eagle
1067 x 730
Emperor
1829 x 1219
Extra Large Atlas
889 x 689
Foolscap
430 x 340
Hand
559 x 406

Imperial
760 x 560
Large Post
530 x 420
Large Post Double
840 x 530
Medium
580 x 480
Pott
394 x 317
Quad Crown
1020 x 760
Quad Foolscap
680 x 680
Quad Medium
1160 x 920
Royal
675 x 510
Royal Hand
635 x 508
Super Royal
710 x 510

Paper Weight

Metric (GSM)
Imperial (LB's)
150- 160
72
180 - 200
90
240 - 250
120
285 - 300
140
410 - 425
200
  

Paper Surfaces

Rough
Natural surface of paper when dry.
Not (or cold pressed)
Between Hot Pressed and Rough (pressed between cold rollers)
Hot Pressed (HP)
Smooth finish sometimes pressed between hot rollers.
  

Glossary

"A" series
ISO range of paper sizes reducing from A0 (841 x 1189mm) by folding in half to preserve the same proportions at each reduction.
acid free
Free from any acid content of other substances likely to have a detrimental effect on the paper or its longevity.
antique
A general term applied to a surface which imitates the laid character of an old sheet. Today the term is often used to denote a rough finish.
archival paper
A term loosely used to indicate paper with long lasting qualities, is acid free, lignin free, usually with good colour retention.
B series
ISO range of paper sizes, falling between the A and C series, designed for items such as wall charts and posters.
bast fibre
The inner bark of such plants as flax, hemp, gampi, mitsumata and kozo, separated from the outer bark and suitable for papermaking.
beater
A machine which alters or modifies the properties of fibres.
beating
Hand or mechanical maceration of fibres to modify their characteristics and prepare them to become pulp.
board
A general term for thick, stiff paper over a certain weight; on average 250-300 gsm.
bonding strength
The ability of fibres on the surface of a paper to adhere to one another and to others below the surface.
brightness
Paper's ability to reflect white light. Brightness values are a measure of the reflectivity of paper to light under controlled conditions, on a scale of 0 - 100; most white papers have brightness values of 75-90.
brittleness
The tendency of paper to crack or break when bent or embossed.
BSI 
British Standards Institution.  Standards co-ordinating body (cf. ANSI).
buffering agent (also called 'alkaline reserve')
An alkaline substance, usually calcium carbonate or magnesium carbonate, occurring naturally in a water supply or purposely added by the papermaker to help counteract acidity in paper.
bulk
The volume or thickness of a paper in relation to its weight.
C series
ISO range of sizes for envelopes.
calcium carbonate (Chalk)
A pigment, which can be used as a filler, a white coating substance and a buffering agent.
calendering
The process of pressing paper through rollers (usually of hardened, polished metal) to increase its surface smoothness.
caliper
The thickness of a single sheet of paper measured with a micrometer in 1/1000 in., millimetres or microns.
cellulose
The basic substance of papermaking: the main part of the cell wall of the plant. Cellulose fibres are not pure enough (except for cotton) to be used directly for papermaking.
chain lines, chain wires
Heavier, more widely spaced lines (or wires) which run at right angles to lines on the surface of a laid mould.

chemical pulp
Wood reduced to pulp by a variety of chemical processes all of which involve the cooking of the fibrous raw material with chemicals in order to extract the cellulose fibre.
china clay
A filler or loading agent.
coated paper
Paper coated with china clay or other filler to give a smooth surface making it suitable for the printing of fine detail.
cockling
Wavy edges (or wrinkling or buckling) caused by unequal expansion due to paper being damper or drier than the atmosphere.
cold pressed (CP)
Same as NOT.
contraries
Unwanted pieces of material which have become embedded in a sheet, e.g. dust, hairs, string, buttons, etc.
cotton
The purest form of cellulose produced in nature, requiring the least amount of processing before it can be used for papermaking.
cross direction
Paper cut at right angles to the direction of the paper machine. Paper is weaker and expands more across the cross direction than along the machine direction.
curing
The maturing of paper for an amount of time, before packing and selling.
curling tendency
A curl caused by unequal shrinkage which develops either when the moisture content of the paper is changed by atmospheric conditions or when the paper comes into contact with moisture.
deckle
The removable wooden frame that fits over the mould to contain the pulp.
deckle edge
The wavy, feathered or ragged edge on the sides of a sheet of handmade paper caused where the pulp seeps under the deckle frame during formation.
deflocculant
A substance which disperses fibres and prevents them from entangling in the pulp.
endpaper
Strong paper used for securing the body of a book to its case.
felt
A rectangular sheet of absorbent woven material, usually of wool, cut larger than the paper, onto which newly formed sheets are couched.
felt finish
A finish to the top surface of paper created by the texture of the felt; often with a special weave.
felt mark
A mark in the paper caused by the impression of a defect in the felt, such as a worn patch.
felt side
The top surface of the pulp, as distinct from the wire side.
Fourdrinier
The standard type of machine on which paper is made at high speed in a continuous web. Sheets produced in this way are called 'machinemade'.
gelatine
A type of sizing obtained form animal tissues, which is applied to the surface of paper to make it impervious to water and to aid resistance to bleeding during printing. Can affect colour.
grain, grain direction
The alignment of fibres in a sheet of paper caused by the flow of the web of wet paper in a cylinder-mould or Fourdrinier machine.


gsm or g/m2
The weight of paper and board when expressed in metric terms as grammes per square metre.
Hot Pressed (H.P.)
One of the three traditional surface finishes of handmade paper. Today this term denotes the smoothest surface, achieved by passing sheets between heavy metal rollers (occasionally heated).
hygroscopic
Said of the nature of a material which tends to make up the moisture content of the atmosphere.
Imperial
1. A large sized sheet, 762mm x 559mm.
2. The traditional system of weights and measures set up in Britain in 1836, in which the basis weight of a sheet of paper is expressed in pounds (lbs.).
India paper
Very thin, high-quality opaque rag paper often used for printing Bibles.
ISO sizes
Range of paper and envelope sizes established by the International Standards Organisation, including notably the A, B and C series.
linting
The process by which clumps of fibres are released from the paper surface during printing due to the tackiness of the ink, especially in lithography.
moisture content
Amount of moisture in paper, expressed as a percentage of weight.
mordant
A substance used to fix a dye to a fibre.
NOT, not
Short for 'Not Hot Pressed'.  One of the three traditional surface finishes of handmade paper (between Rough and Hot Pressed), produced by passing between felts. Called Cold Pressed (C.P.) in the U.S.
paper mulberry (mulberry tree)
This is a broad term for a number of trees from whose inner bark paper is made; Broussonetia papyrifera is probably the most widely used; in Thailand it is called saa, in Japan kozo.
pH
The pH value describes the acidity or alkalinity of a paper; it is a measure of the availability of free hydrogen ions. 0pH is very acid; 14pH is very alkaline; 7pH is neutral.
quire
A twentieth part of a ream; today a quantity of 25 sheets of paper.
rag
Indicates that a paper has been produced from cotton linters. The term 'rag content' describes the amount of cotton fibres relative to the total amount of material used in the pulp.
rattle
The sound produced by shaking a piece of paper, indicating the hardness of the sheet.
ream
An old word for a quantity of paper. Today taken to refer to 500 sheets of good paper.
relative humidity (RH)
The amount of water vapour present in the atmosphere expressed as a percentage of saturation, measured with a hygrometer.
rosin
A commonly used internal sizing agent; occasionally also used for surface sizing. It is acidic in nature, and is detrimental to the permanence of paper.
Rough
One of the three traditional surface finishes of handmade paper; a rough surface is properly obtained by loft drying in natural air.
shives
Specks of impurities in the raw fibre discernable in the finished sheet.


sizing
A solution, or process of applying such a solution, intended to make paper moisture-resistant to varying degrees. Size can be added at two stages of the paper-making process.
1. In internal sizing (also called beater- or engine-sizing), size is added to the beater.
2. In surface sizing (also called external- or tub-sizing), dried papers are passed through a solution of gelatine (or glue, casein or starch) traditionally contained in a bath or a tub; surface size can also be applied by brushing or rubbing.
smalt
Deep blue pieces of glass pulverized and used as a colouring agent.
smoothness
Essentially the surface flatness of a paper. It is not the same as 'gloss' (which is an optical property) and is not related to porosity.
spur
A group of sheets dried naturally together.
substance
The weight or grammage of a sheet of paper expressed in gsm or lbs per ream.
surface finish
The surface character of a sheet of paper, described in terms of its texture, e.g. Rough, NOT, H.P., burnished , hammered.
texture
The surface detail or finish of a paper, which can be a natural result of the quality of the pulp, processing or drying, or a contrived impression.
tooth
Describes a surface texture that grips a drawing pigment.
traditional
A term used to refer to accepted, established and valued techniques customary to papermaking processes of the past.
vellum
1. The prepared inner side of calfskin or kid skin.
2. A paper surface which imitates true vellum, notably any matt wove type; often used to describe mouldmade and Japanese papers.
waterleaf
Used to describe a paper that contains no sizing and is therefore generally very absorbent.
watermark
A translucent design in a sheet of paper that can be viewed as a paler area when held up to the light. Typically watermarks are linear, formed in wire.
web
A continuous length of paper (I.e. a roll or reel) as distinct from a sheet.
wet strength
The strength of a finished sheet of paper when it is saturated with water.
wire side
The underside of paper in contact with the mesh during making, as distinct from the felt side.

Painting Questions



Q.
Can I mix Oils and Acrylics?
A.  If by that you mean mix the two paints together, the simple answer is No. You can however do an under-painting with Acrylics and then paint oils over the top, this is useful if you wish to make a quick start but not necessarily of archival quality unless an acrylic emulsion gesso is used.   

Why? Acrylics are water based, when you try to paint acrylic over oils, like water on a ducks back it slides off, but this isn't always apparent at first!
Q.
Can I mix water based Oils with ordinary Oils?
A. Yes you can. BUT if you mix water based with traditional/ordinary oils, then you need to treat them all as ordinary oils, especially when it comes to cleaning equipment.
The modified mediums used with water-based oils were designed for that purpose, and likewise the mediums for ordinary oils.
Q.
Do I have to paint Oils on canvas?
A. No you don't, you can use just about any surface for Oils. The only recommendation is that it is suitably sealed and primed, and has a 'key' or 'tooth' for the paint to adhere to, this is very important.
You can successfully use solid supports like wood, hardboard, plywood, chipboard, tin, copper, brick, concrete, plasterboard, and pottery.
Other supports include oil paper, watercolour paper, illustration board, linen, muslin, silk, polyester and museum board. Plenty to choose from!
Q.
What's the difference between, a support, a size and a ground?
A. The support is just that, the material that supports the finished painting, a cave wall or a canvas.
The size, which is usually a form of weak glue, penetrates the surface of the support i.e. rabbit skin glue applied to raw canvas.
A ground is a physical surface between the support and the paint, it gives a surface texture to paint on, often referred to as 'tooth'. The raw canvas is sized to give it internal protection and strength, a ground is then applied to prime and seal the canvas ready for painting.
Why? The ground gives a uniform surface to paint on, without it, the oil paint would soak into the fabric which can cause all types of problems. Over time the acids in the atmosphere can attack all manner of things and even if the fabric of the canvas fell away, the painting could still be intact on it's ground.
Q.
What is a wash?
A. A wash is paint thinned with solvent only to a 'watery' consistency, this is usually applied to colour the ground before painting.
Q.
What is a glaze?
A. A glaze is a transparent film of colour. The colour is thinned with solvent and painting medium until very liquid, this allows a thin even coat to be applied, to the desired area over the dry painting. Good for depth and colour.
Q.
What is scumble or scumbling?
A. Very little paint is used on the brush for this technique. The colour is often opaque, it is used very dry and is in effect 'scrubbed' on, as opposed to painted on to the canvas, good for misty effects and high lights. Very similar to 'dry brush' in watercolour.
Q.
What's Impasto?
  1. Impasto is thick and/or rough strokes of paint. A knife is often used for this technique, it is a good way of creating texture. 

Q.
What is
'Gesso' ?
A. The traditional Gesso is made from hide glue and chalk or gypsum. It is applied to a solid surface and forms a hard, absorbent, ground on which to paint. Gesso is also found in the woodworking industry, where is known as Bole. 


There are other Gesso's on the market today, these are often Acrylic and Acrylic emulsion based, quick drying and can be used on a flexible surface as well as a solid surface/ground. Acrylic emulsion gesso is used for priming and is recommended for use with oils. 
Q.
What is a siccative?
A siccative is another name for a drier, driers are added to some oil paint pigment to make it dry faster but is usually found in oil mediums. Burnt Umber, which is by nature a fast drying paint, (without added driers) when added to other colours causes them to dry faster, it acts as a siccative. 
Q.
What are Earth Colours?
A. Earth colours were originally made from natural ores of the earth, the main one being iron oxide. Many manufactures now make synthetic iron oxide. The main earth colours are Burnt and Raw Umber, Burnt and Raw Sienna, Yellow Ochre, Terre Verte, (Green Earth) Caput Mortuum, Davys Grey, Venetian and Light Red, there are others but the first five are the main ones people refer to.
The earth colours tend to be strong colours that have low chroma and low tinting strength, making them easy to handle.
The 'Mars' range of colours tend to be made from synthetic iron oxides. 

Gouache Paint


What is Gouache?



Gouache is an opaque watercolour paint. Whereas transparent watercolours allow you to see the "white" of the paper below the paint, gouache can be applied in solid colours. This allows an artist to paint in layers from dark to light.
Gouache dries to a matte finish, which makes it easy to scan or reproduce electronically, since there is no glossy shine.

Acrylic gouache is not really a gouache, because it has an acrylic polymer binder, but it is an acrylic paint that resembles gouache in properties such as its opacity, its creamy texture, and its matte finish. 


Renowned for its brilliance, opacity, and great tinting strength, Winsor & Newton Designer's Gouache is a finely ground, water based paint, well suited to illustration with pen, brush, or airbrush.


All Designer's Gouache colours are fully compatible with Winsor & Newton Artists' and Cotman watercolours.


Colours can be mixed with Finity Artists' Acrylic and Galeria Flow Formula Acrylics, however care should be taken because some gouache colours can react adversely with acrylics. Combinations should be tested on the palette paper prior to use in a painting.


For fine art painting, watercolour papers are recommended. For design and illustration, where work is intended for electronic scanning and reproduction, use illustration board or a hot press watercolour paper to get a flat finish that reproduces well. 

Using Oil Bars


OIL BARS

Oil Bars are fundamentally different from oil pastels or oil crayons due to their unique formulation. Each of the colours are produced by combining artists' quality pigments with Linseed Oil, into which are blended specially selected waxes.
Using Oil Bars
To start using the Oil Bar simply wipe away the thin surface film which forms as the Oil Bar dries. The Oil Bar softens & flows as pressure is applied. They may be applied directly to the canvas so that nothing comes between artist and the surface to which it is applied.
This allows the artist to draw a continuous line of rich colour to create traditional sketches or abstract images.
Painting Surface
The Oil Bar can be used on a variety of surfaces including paper, canvas & board. The surface should be sized and primed in the same way as for any oil-based product.
Compatibility
Oil Bars can be intermixed with traditional oil colours, oil pastels etc whilst painting and can be used with all types of mediums formulated for use with oil colours.
Drying Time
Subject to variation the oil colour will generally be touch dry in 2 to 7 days. The outer film of the remaining Oil Bar will reform after 2 to 5 days.

The Difference between System 3 Original and Heavy Body



This video demonstrates the Difference between System 3 Original and Heavy Body.

Daler-Rowney Watercolour Wash Lesson


Daler-Rowney Watercolour Wash Lesson

Daler-Rowney Colour Mixing Lesson


Daler-Rowney Colour Mixing Video

Oil Paint Technique


OIL PAINTING TECHNIQUE

There are many different ways to paint but the two most commonly used ones are, Traditional  (indirect painting), a slow and controlled method. Wet-on-wet (direct painting) with this method, the painting is usually completed in one sitting, often referred to alla prima - at the first.

The traditional method often uses tonal under-painting as the basis of the picture, usually grey (grisaille) or brown (bistre) in colour. The tonal values of the finished under-painting should be lighter in tone than required in the finished work, because the application of the glazes will lower the value. Often more complex in application, whereby transparent and opaque layers of paint are applied in succession, opaque layers can also be applied as a scumble. The transparent layers are usually applied as a glaze of thin colour over the more opaque layers, the opaque layer being allowed to dry before the glaze is applied. The final layer of paint can be painted directly into the last glaze. Colours applied by this method usually bring a greater luminosity to the finished work than can be achieved in the direct method. Acrylic gesso can be used successfully for under-painting, especially if you wish to make a quick start.

With the wet-on-wet method, the painting is completed with, in effect, one layer of paint, which is usually opaque or semi-opaque. There is a need to make definite decisions about the work, before and as it progresses. All the elements of the painting have to be mentally handled at the same time, with regard to tone, composition, shape, form and colour, etc.  Doing a sketch or drawing before starting the work can be very helpful.
When working in the traditional way it is important to work 'Fat over Lean'.  'Fat' is paint straight from the tube or with linseed oil added, this makes the paint more flexible when dry. 'Lean' is paint with no added oil or thinned with solvent. The way it works is to start with paint that has low oil content (lean), followed by paint with high oil content, then paint with added linseed oil (fat). As a general rule of thumb, working from dark colours to light colours helps to maintain this principal.

Whites

Vary considerably, and have different uses,
Painting whites are not usually suitable for priming or under painting.
Cremnitz slow drying.
Flake white lacks opacity.
Titanium whitest and most opaque slow drier.
Zinc least opaque cold white for tints and glazes.

The Fat over Lean Principle


First layer of paint thinned with solvent.
Next layers of paint have less solvent.
Next layers are tube paint - no solvent.
Next layers are tube paint with a little linseed oil.
Final layer is tube paint with more linseed oil.

Mixing the Paint

You can mix paint on the palette, on the brush, with a knife or on the canvas, each will give a different effect - try them all. The flat, round bladed 'palette knife', is the best for mixing paint on the palette. Mix small amounts of paint at first until you feel better able to judge quantities.

Dark colours will overpower light colours very quickly. It's very easy to 'over mix' colours on the palette, this can lead to very flat, dead looking paint. Something to be avoided!

When mixing colour on the brush, try not to use it like a palette knife, instead pick small amounts of the colour up with the brush, either by tapping the brush into the colour or pulling it through the paint.
It's easy to use a painting knife like a palette knife, but painting knives are engineered to give the correct edge for applying paint to the canvas. You can load one colour at a time or several on the blade edge. There are a variety of shapes and sizes of painting knives, recognised by their cranked handle.

Georgian Oil Colour

By Daler Rowney These oil colours offer artists high performance colours at an economical and uniform price across all 57 colours in the range. Georgian Oil Colours are produced to the same exacting standards as Artists' Oil Colour. Georgian Oil Colours are carefully blended and tested to produce the most brilliant colour, and match tint, and texture from batch to batch. All 57 colours have fine working qualities and a high degree of permanence.