FASHION / TAILORING

Basting Thread

This thread is generally used for tacking.

Bias Binding

Bias binding is a strip of fabric that is cut on the cross (at 45degrees) this causes the strip to become stretchy so it will bind curves as well as straight edges.

Bondex Computer Plotter

High Quality White Plain Paper. For any computer plotter. Suitable for hand drawn markers.

Boning

Plastic coated steel used for corsetry and foundation garments.

Made from cotton, sometimes in linen, or synthetics. Plain weave, low-textured, loose weave, very heavily sized and stiff. Also can be made of 2 fabrics are glued together; one is open weave and the other much finer. Some is also made in linen in a single fabric.

Also called Crinoline Book Muslin or Book Binding.

Buckrum Softens with heat, it can be shaped while warm. Used for interlinings and all kinds of stiffening in clothes, book binding, and for millinery (because it can be moistened and shaped). Also used to give stiffness to leather.

Calico

Is a fabric made from unbleached and often not fully processed cotton. It may contain unseparated husk parts, for example. The fabric is less coarse and thick than canvas or denim, but owing to its unfinished and undyed appearance, it is still very cheap.

Cotton Twill

A fabric produced by constructing a weave that repeats on three or more warp threads and weft threads, and produces diagonal lines on the face of the fabric.

Cotton Drill

A twill fabric, usually piece-dyed, similar in construction to denim.

Diagram Scales

A flexible, acrylic square with graduations in one corner, one fifth and two fifths scales. Includes useful curves for armholes, necklines and sleeves.

Fibre Mesh

This truly unique material imitates matted fibres providing you with a material that is easy to cut and glue to most surfaces. Ideal for collage.

Flixi Invisible Mending.

An iron on bonding material for fusing fabrics together.

Embroidery Ring

Used to hold fabric taut so that fabric can be sewn and helps to avoid puckering while sewing.

Georgette

A fine lightweight open fabric woven in crêpe yarns.

Graders Set Squares

Durable 3mm thick clear acrylic with engraved markings: grading lines along one edge, two edges calibrated and bevelled. 45 degree angle for bias.

Hole for hanging. Long edge inches, short edge cm.

Habotai

A lightweight silk fabric commonly used for linings, hangings and underwear.

Hemming Web

An iron on adhesive strip of material which bonds fabrics together used for hems but could be used in other ways.

Hooks & Eyes & Hook & Bar

A fastening often used on waist band of trousers or skirts.

Mercerising

Refers to the finishing process where cotton thread is treated in a caustic solution under controller tension.

Monofilament

Thread produced from a single nylon continuous filament that is translucent.

Multifilament

Thread made from continuous filaments of polyester or nylon, twisted together and plied to make a thread.

NEEDLES

Tapestry Round point slips between fabric yarns

Quilting Short needles for quick even stitching

Darning Extra long with long eyes for mending work

Leather Triangular point pierces without tearing

Sharps A small needle for general sewing in assorted sizes

Milliners The extra length allows long stitches to be loaded up on the needle, good for basing.

Pattern Hook

Used to hang up paper patterns for storage.

Pattern Master

A specially designed, multi-purpose work aid with all the conventional functions of the Graders Set Square plus some unique features which speed up, and remove, some of the drudgery from pattern cutting. Made from strong, clear Perspex and bevelled on its long straight edge. Supplied with basic, easy-to-follow instructions in a protective wallet. Designed by Professor Martin Shoben of the London Centre for Fashion Studies. 43cm (16 3/4 in.) long, 19cm (7 1/4 in.) wide, and 3mm (1/8 in.) thick.
Available in Metric or Imperial.

Pattern Notcher

Used to cut a notch in pattern or fabric which is a marker to match pattern pieces together when constructing a garment.

Permaspun Thread

100% polyester thread.

Piping Cord

Can be covered by bais binding. It is a way to emphasize a seam or edge and can add strength to corners that might receive a lot of wear.

Polyester Rigilene Boning

Is used in many applications, as stiffening for bows, corsets, hats & belts, within soft toys, on bags, shoes and purses. It is also used in soft furnishings such as pelmets, tie-backs and blinds. In fact its use is limited only by your imagination.

Satin

Is a cloth that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back. A satin is a weaving technique that forms a minimum number of interlacings in a fabric.

If a fabric is formed with a satin weave using filament fibers such as silk or nylon, the fabric is termed a "satin."

If the yarns used are short-staple yarns such as cotton the fabric formed is considered a "sateen."

Shears (Side Bent)

The side bent handles make it easier to cut fabrics flat on the table.

Shears (Pinking)

They cut through denim and all woven materials with a crisp zig-zag that helps to prevent fraying. The blades, made from finest surgical steel, are precision ground with a longer lower blade to make continuous cutting easier. The specially contoured handles ensure maximum comfort and excellent control.

Shirring

Making puckers or gathers in a fabric, often by using elasticated thread in parallel rows.

Shoben Fashion Curve

A multi-purpose 12 function Grading and Pattern Cutting/Design Tool. Graduating from 0 to 50cm with a 25cm centring scale, curves for neck, armholes and hips, bias and right angle markings and curved seam allowance.

Shoben Designer Tape

A new adhesive tape with 1cm markings to speed up style planning. This tape replaces the old fashioned pins and fabric tape method and avoids damaging your dress stand. 3mm wide. 25 metres long. This tape has other applications, such as marking out paintings on canvas or board, clay modelling etc. Easily removable and leaves no mark.

Stitch Ripper

This tool is used to unpick sewing, it is especially effective along seams.

Sylko Thread

A 100% cotton thread.

Tarlatan

Is a starched, open weave fabric much like cheese cloth, It is used to wipe the ink off a plate during the Intaglio inking process. The open weave allows for the tarlatan to pick up a large quantity of ink. The stiffness imparted by the starch helps prevent the fabric from taking the ink out of the incised lines.

Thursday

Fashion and Tailoring Glossary

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